2011-2014 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke Oil System Parts

The oil system on the 2011-2014 6.7L Powerstroke

Ford's spec for this 6.7L Powerstroke is 13.0 quarts with the filter, using oil that meets API CJ-4 and Ford WSS-M2C171-F1. 10W-30 is preferred, with 5W-40, 15W-40 or 0W-40 as alternatives, and synthetic is recommended. The factory filter is a Motorcraft FL-2051S, and the change interval is 10,000 miles in normal service or 5,000 in severe service. Two running changes for 2012 matter here: the plastic lower pan was replaced with a stamped-steel pan with a conventional drain plug, and the oil cooler was revised to bolt on without hidden hardware. The upper oil pan is sealed to the block with RTV.

What fails and why

Leaks are the main complaint, and they tend to show up in this order:

• The upper oil pan seam, which collects at the bell housing and gets mistaken for a rear main seal.
• The 2011 plastic lower pan, which warps and seeps with heat cycles.
• The vacuum pump gasket on the front cover.
• Turbo oil feed and drain O-rings hardened by heat.
• Leaks caused by crankcase pressure from a clogged CCV separator.

Find the source by tracing from the highest wet point down with UV dye. Two other things to watch: fuel dilution from post-injection during active DPF regeneration, which shows as a rising oil level and a diesel smell on the dipstick, and the oil cooler, which at high mileage can push oil temperatures up or mix oil and coolant.

Stock replacement vs. upgrade

For a leaking 2011 plastic pan, the OEM-style fix is a stamped-steel lower pan like the one 2012 and later trucks got, and the Dorman lower oil pan is the OE-style replacement here. If you want something heavier than stock, PPE's heavy-duty cast aluminum pan and the Mag-Hytec pan are the upgrade options; check each listing for capacity. Mishimoto sells both a replacement oil cooler and a performance cooler. Drain plugs are a small upgrade: the SPE Motorsport billet stainless plug and the Mishimoto magnetic plug are listed from 2012 on, to suit the steel pan. Additives such as Lucas Oil stabilizers, Hot Shot's Secret TBN Booster and FR3, and XDP X-Factor are optional; choose an oil that meets Ford's spec first.

What we carry

• Oil: Hot Shot's Secret Green Diamond, Blue Diamond and Black Diamond Outlaw CK-4 oils and Adrenaline R-Series racing oils, plus Lucas Oil 10W-30 and 15W-40 heavy-duty oils.
• Filters: PPE MicroPure XR and MAHLE OC1662 oil filters.
• Pans and gaskets: the Dorman lower oil pan, PPE's heavy-duty cast aluminum pan, the Mag-Hytec pan, the XDP pan bolt kit, and MAHLE upper and lower pan gaskets, an oil filter housing gasket and an oil cooler mounting kit.
• Coolers and plugs: Mishimoto replacement and performance oil coolers and a magnetic drain plug, and the SPE Motorsport billet stainless drain plug.
• Sensors: the Alliant Power oil pressure sensor and a two-wire pigtail.
• Additives: Lucas Oil stabilizers and break-in additive, Hot Shot's Secret TBN Booster and FR3, and XDP X-Factor.
• Also: oil system parts from No Limit Fabrication.

Fitment notes

The 2011 trucks are the odd ones out. The oil pan, oil cooler hardware and turbo fittings changed for 2012, so some parts are 2011-only, and 2012-and-later parts like the drain plugs here should be checked before you order for a 2011. The MAHLE upper oil pan gasket set is listed for 2011-2014. On oil, stick to the viscosities Ford lists. Grades outside that list, such as the 0W-20 light-duty oil and the 5W-20 and 20W-50 racing oils, are here for other engines, not as a fill for the 6.7L. Verify by VIN.

Frequently asked questions

What oil does my 2011-2014 6.7L need, and how much?

Plan on 13.0 quarts including the filter. Use oil that meets API CJ-4 and Ford WSS-M2C171-F1; 10W-30 is preferred, with 5W-40, 15W-40 and 0W-40 approved as alternatives, and synthetic is recommended. Check the label on any jug against that spec before you pour.

My 2011's plastic oil pan is leaking. What should I replace it with?

The OEM-style fix is a stamped-steel lower pan, the design Ford switched to for 2012. If you want more capacity, a heavy-duty aluminum pan replaces the plastic one and adds oil volume. Either way, use new gaskets and confirm the pan's fitment for a 2011 before you order.

How often should I change the oil?

Every 10,000 miles in normal service and every 5,000 in severe service. If your truck makes short trips or idles a lot, fuel dilution from DPF regeneration is more likely, so watch the dipstick for a rising level or a diesel smell. More highway time and less idling help.

How do I find where my oil leak is coming from?

Start at the highest wet point and trace down, using UV dye. On this engine the usual suspects, in order, are the upper oil pan seam, the 2011 plastic lower pan, the vacuum pump gasket, heat-hardened turbo oil feed and drain O-rings, and leaks pushed out by crankcase pressure.

Not sure what fits? Call the shop at the number in the header, or use the fitment checker on any product page. We install everything we sell.